Pleats are categorized as pressed , that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed , falling in soft rounded folds. In this article I will talk about difference between pleated and flat front non pleated pants. Milan will forever fight Savile Row on that unfortunately.
That said, I think the Brioni reverse pleats look very good on both of them. The crease will no longer line up with the pleat. Is it fair to say that the ideal position of trouser height would be for the waistband to sit across the belly button?
If I can add to discussions; I personally have avoided pleated pants for years, if to avoid the largley-unflattering baggy look that dominated menswear throughout the 90s. Pleats are like dangerous animals: However, if properly tamed, and trained, they can become a trusted ally. Does anyone know the origin of forward and reverse pleats?
Reverse pleats are said to be an Italian specificity, but I have noticed from s movies that reverse pleats were plentiful in the USA at this time whereas lots of people wore the forward type in Europe. Forward pleats and reverse pleats were both very common in s and s American film. Judging by the men in the many American tv shows we get the US seems to favour a more looser fit.
Is there a particular reason for this? Part of it was fashion. People thought reverse pleats were modern whilst forward pleats were old-fashioned. Another part of is that poorly-fitted reverse pleats that pull open look better than the forward pleats that pull open. Are forward pleats preferable you think? I have trousers with a single reverse pleat, but how big difference would you say it is between reverse- and forward pleats? From what I understand, trousers with reverse pleats are baggier?
I think forward pleats are always preferable unless someone wants to look wider. I see a very big difference between forward pleats and reverse pleats. Forward pleats make the hips look narrower whilst reverse pleats make the hips look wider. Reverse pleats tend to be a little baggier because of the way the trousers are cut. How is the assortment of trousers with forward pleats or darts in New York? Based on your great articles I think forward pleats or darts are preferred. By the way, what do think about flat front trousers?
Paul Stuart in New York has forward pleats. Flat front trousers are fine for people with a small waist-to-hip ratio. Matt , how do Forward pleats compare to reverse pleats in terms of comfort? I only have experience with forward pleats. The roominess has more to do with the depth of the pleat than with the direction of it.
Reverse pleats probably feel roomier because the fullness is coming from the outside of the leg. They certainly look roomier. Thank you , Matt. Do Darted trousers have the same level of comfort as eated trousers? And do you know any brand or Tailor who makes Darted trousers? Darted trousers do not offer the same comfort as pleated. Many English bespoke tailors like them.
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. How to dress like Bond and beyond. Sean Connery wearing trousers with double forward pleats Though pleated trousers may not be currently fashionable, every James Bond except Roger Moore has worn them.
Daniel Craig wearing trousers with reverse pleats Reverse pleats are the standard pleats today, or at least they were a few years ago before pleats completely went out of fashion. Timothy Dalton wearing trousers with triple reverse pleats The purpose of pleats is a practical one, both to allow the trousers to expand when seated and to better fit the curves of the hips. Great read, does Bond ever wear single pleated pants?
It seems that flat front pants come back and go out of fashion, but pleated pants are always present making them more traditional. Over at Nordstrom they have a great selection of pleated pants! Pleats are creases on the front of the pants, with two of them on both sides. The material is folded and sewed before it is attached to waistband. In flat front pants material lies flat. Pleated pants are worn on the waist, just above your hip bone.
This also means that pleated pants have a higher rise. Flat front pants are worn bit lower, on your hips, making them slim looking and better fitting. Since pleated pants have higher rise this makes them more generous in the middle. As you might have guessed pleated pants are better suited for larger men. If you have large back and large bottom you should definitely choose pleated pants. They will give you more freedom of movement and you will feel more comfortable.
Wear them on your waist since if you wear them on your hips, your thighs will look huge. Another detail that should be added to pleated pants is cuffs. If you opt for pleated pants you should add cuffs, because this will complete the classic look of your pants, and it will add weight to your pants making fabric drape naturally.
Slimmer men can wear pleated pants only in a suit combination, never alone by themselves since if worn alone they will make extra room around middle section and this will look sloppy. These pants are great for slimmer man. They will make your silhouette more smooth and straight.
They should be worn on hips, but they have to fit you perfectly. Also you should leave your pants cuff free, since they do not need extra weight at the bottom. Slimmer men can wear cuffs on their pants only if the pants are from heavier fabric.
Tweed or such, which is worn in winter cold days. In this way the pants will drape better. If you are a larger modern man you should avoid flat front since it will be too tight for you and they will feel uncomfortable. Flat front pants will also emphasize your belly. If you are somewhere in the middle, neither big, neither slim, you should try both options and see how they feel. Sit down in them, walk around, stand up and be sure they are comfortable in every situation.
I find pleated pants are much more comfortable than flat-fronted pants and chose pleated whenever I can sadly stores seem to push flat-fronts. Flat front trousers are perfect for those who love an essential style without aesthetical mannerisms, these trousers are great for slimmer men.
They will make your silhouette more smooth and straight. They should be worn on hips, but they have to fit you perfectly. You can try custom made flat front trousers but it will not totally solve the stress on your abdomen. Also you should leave your pants cuff free, since they do not need extra weight at the bottom.
Slimmer men can wear cuffs on their pants only if the pants are from heavier fabric. Easy to wear and always elegant they are a must for over fifties but still they can give a dandy touch to a younger man. Revisited in a contemporary way these trousers are essential for those who keep their hands in pockets or for those who store smartphone, keys or other objects in the pockets.
Thanks to their shape the pleats create a largeness necessary to prevent that the fabric stretches messing up the silhouette. One pleat is enough to guarantee a comfortable wearability while two pleats are perfect with a more refined look and it also gives extra softness to the crotch zone.
Pleated pants are better suited for larger men, if you have a large back and a large bottom you should definitely choose pleated pants.
They are perfect for those who easily gain weight or during the summer to winter period. Pants cuffs are the bottom hem of your trouser legs folded outside. There is no strict rule while choosing between a cuffed pleated trouser or no cuff pleated trouser. It all depends on your personal style and the fact that where you will be wearing your trousers.
Flat front trousers were very popular in the middle of the 20th century, but in the 80’s with its baggy style, pleated pants had a revival. Later it all changed for the more lean, slim looking silhouette and flat front pants came back. Online shopping for Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry from a great selection of Casual, Wear to Work, Night Out, Pants & more at everyday low prices. Pleated pants have folds or pleats along the waist, towards the front and the different types can define a trouser formal or informal. The leg of the trousers is usually well tapered towards the ankles and they can be with cropped ankles or traditional hem lengths.